Range anxiety is real on an e-MTB, and it’s rarely about the battery size alone. UK riding tends to combine steep, punchy climbs, wet surfaces that demand more traction, and colder temperatures for a good chunk of the year — all of which push energy consumption up. Add in the fact that different motor systems deliver support differently, and it’s easy to see why one rider can get a full day from a 500Wh battery while another can empty a 750Wh pack in a couple of hours.

The good news is that e-MTB range is one of the easiest things to improve without spending money. A few changes to how you set the bike up and how you use assistance can make a meaningful difference, particularly on longer rides or in winter. This guide focuses on practical, real-world steps for UK riders — whether you’re on a hardtail, a full-suspension e-MTB, or a trekking/SUV-style bike doing mixed surfaces.

(Internal links to add: Motors & batteries explained, Best long-range e-MTBs (if you build it), and Battery care for winter (future post).)

What actually drains an e-MTB battery?

If you want more range, it helps to know the big drains. In simple terms, the motor uses the most energy when it has to produce high torque for sustained periods — steep climbing, riding in a hard gear at low cadence, pushing through thick mud, or running high assistance mode everywhere.

Cold weather matters too. Batteries don’t like the cold, and you’ll typically feel that as reduced performance or reduced usable capacity in winter. The motor is also working harder because soft ground and winter tyre choices increase rolling resistance. None of this is a reason not to ride; it just explains why “summer range” and “January range” can feel like different bikes.

Finally, rider behaviour is a huge variable. High assistance + heavy rider + lots of elevation + aggressive tyres + low pressures is the perfect recipe for draining the battery quickly. The same bike ridden smoothly in a sensible mode, at a steady cadence, can go much further.

Start with the easy wins: tyres, drivetrain, and setup

Tyres are the quiet range killer. Overly soft pressures, ultra-sticky compounds and heavy, tough casings all add drag. You shouldn’t choose tyres purely for range — grip and control come first — but you can avoid unnecessary losses by being deliberate. If you’re running a super-aggressive mud tyre on the rear for dry hardpack, you’re burning watts for no real benefit. Likewise, running pressures too low can feel “safe” but it increases squirm and drag, and can make the motor work harder.

Drivetrain condition is another free gain. A dirty chain and gritty cassette add resistance, and on an e-MTB you’re often pedalling under load for longer — which makes efficiency losses add up. A clean, lubricated chain and properly indexed gears don’t just shift better; they help you sit in the right cadence and keep the motor in a more efficient part of its operating range.

Suspension setup can affect range too, especially on full-suspension bikes. A bike that wallows or bobs excessively under power can feel comfortable but wastes energy. You don’t want a harsh, overdamped setup, but a sensible balance (correct sag, rebound not too slow) helps maintain momentum and reduces how often the motor has to “dig you out” of slow sections.

Use assistance modes strategically, not emotionally

A lot of riders treat Turbo as the default and then wonder why range is poor. The trick is to use the high modes as a tool, not a lifestyle. On UK trails, the biggest benefit of high assistance is usually on steep, technical climbs and short punchy ramps where traction and momentum are the limiting factors. If you’re using maximum support on flat fireroads or gentle gradients, you’re spending battery without gaining much time or enjoyment.

A practical strategy is to ride the majority of the day in a lower mode (Eco or equivalent), move up a mode for sustained climbs, and use the highest mode only for the moments where it genuinely adds control or keeps you moving. If your system has custom tuning (many do), consider lowering peak support slightly and smoothing the delivery. A motor that ramps in less aggressively can actually help traction on slippery climbs and reduce that “spike” energy use.

Cadence and gearing: the underrated range cheat

Riding in too hard a gear at low cadence is one of the fastest ways to drain a battery, because it forces the motor to produce high torque at low RPM. That’s not where most systems are happiest. Instead, aim to spin a little more than you think you need to. Shifting earlier, keeping cadence steady, and avoiding grinding up climbs can make the bike feel smoother and extend range.

On technical climbs, it’s tempting to mash a big gear for stability. But if you can keep your cadence up in an easier gear, the motor can assist more efficiently and you’re less likely to break traction. That’s a double win: better control and less wasted energy from wheelspin.

Ride smoother to ride further (momentum saves watt-hours)

On an e-MTB, efficiency isn’t just about the motor — it’s about how often you force the whole system to accelerate from low speed. Every stop-start moment costs battery. That doesn’t mean you should ride timidly, but it’s worth thinking about momentum: reading the trail ahead, carrying speed through corners, and choosing lines that keep the bike rolling rather than repeatedly bogging down and powering back up.

Wheelspin is another sneaky drain. If you’re spinning the rear tyre on a muddy climb, the motor is working hard but you’re not converting that energy into forward motion. A slightly lower assistance mode, a smoother pedal stroke, and a line choice that finds firmer ground can actually get you up the climb with less battery used.

Winter range: what changes and what to do about it

In cold UK conditions, the simplest advice is to keep the battery warm until you ride. If your e-MTB lives in a cold shed or garage overnight, the battery starts the ride at a disadvantage. Bringing it indoors before the ride (where realistic) and fitting it to the bike shortly before setting off can help.

After the ride, avoid charging a battery that’s ice-cold straight away. Let it come back towards room temperature first, then charge. This is as much about long-term battery health as it is about day-to-day range, but healthier batteries tend to hold performance better over time.

Winter also tends to mean heavier clothing, wetter ground, lower pressures, and more drag — so plan your rides accordingly. If your summer loop is 40km with 1,000m of climbing, don’t assume you’ll get the same out of the bike in January without changing something.

A simple “range planning” rule that actually helps

If you want a quick planning method, think in terms of battery capacity (Wh) versus how hard the ride will be (elevation + surface + assistance). Real-world consumption varies hugely, but most riders will see a broad range that can swing from “surprisingly efficient” on smoother terrain in low modes to “battery disappears” on steep, technical, muddy rides in high modes.

The practical move is to plan conservatively in the early part of the ride: use lower modes, keep cadence high, and only spend battery aggressively when it’s genuinely improving the riding. If you finish the first half of your ride with more battery than expected, you can always turn it up later. It’s much harder to do the opposite.

When it’s not you: battery age, software, and system health

If your range has suddenly dropped, check the basics before blaming yourself. Tyres wearing into a slower tread, brakes rubbing, a contaminated drivetrain, or a wheel that isn’t spinning freely can all make an e-MTB feel “short range” overnight. Software updates can also change motor behaviour, sometimes for the better, occasionally in ways that feel different. If your bike offers system diagnostics through an app or dealer, it’s worth checking battery health and error logs if something feels off.

And finally, be realistic about battery age. Over time, batteries lose capacity. If your bike is several years old and range is declining despite good habits, it may simply be a normal part of battery ageing — and that’s when a range extender (if supported) or a replacement battery becomes a sensible upgrade.