Learning how to remove and fit MTB pedals starts with one easily missed detail: the two sides do not use the same thread. Getting that right protects the crank, whether you are changing worn flats, fitting clipless pedals or packing an eMTB for a trip.
Choose the replacement system before reaching for a spanner. Our MTB pedals guide explains the differences between flats and clipless options, while the MTB shoes guide helps match the sole to the platform.
Before you remove MTB pedals
Switch an eMTB off and support it securely. Keep hands clear of sharp pedal pins and chainring teeth. Find the L and R markings on the pedal axles, then identify the actual tool fitting: some pedals have spanner flats, some an internal hex socket, and some both.
Use a well-fitting pedal spanner or the specified hex key. A thin cone spanner is not a substitute. Park Tool’s removal instructions explain how positioning the tool close to the crank arm improves leverage and control.
Which way do MTB pedals undo?
Viewed from outside the bike, facing that pedal: the right, drive-side pedal loosens anticlockwise. The left, non-drive-side pedal loosens clockwise. Looking at a hex key from behind the crank reverses the apparent direction; the thread itself has not changed.
Fully engage the tool, brace the crank and apply controlled pressure. Stop if the socket starts rounding, the tool slips or the crank visibly flexes. A seized pedal is a workshop job if you cannot release it safely; forcing it with an improvised extension can turn a replacement pedal into a damaged crank.
How to fit MTB pedals without cross-threading
Clean and inspect the axle and crank threads. Apply the grease or anti-seize specified for the components. Fit any pedal washer required by the crank or pedal manufacturer, then start the correctly marked axle squarely by hand. The right pedal tightens clockwise and the left anticlockwise when viewed from outside.
The axle should engage smoothly. If it binds immediately, back it out and check alignment and side identification. Do not use the wrench to force the first turns. Damaged threads need assessment by a mechanic, not more tightening force.
Use the correct tool and model-specific torque
Do not assume every hex socket is intended for final tightening. Shimano’s pedal dealer manual, for example, warns that the 6mm fitting on the models concerned cannot provide sufficient tightening torque and specifies a 15mm spanner. It gives 35–55Nm for the listed pedal-to-crank connections; that is a model-specific instruction, not a universal setting for every brand.
Read the instructions for both your pedal and crank and resolve any conflicting requirements before fitting. Use a torque wrench with the appropriate fitting, rather than guessing from how hard another pedal was to remove.
Check the installation before riding
Confirm both axles are properly seated, rotate each pedal and check for looseness at the crank connection. With clipless pedals, also check cleat compatibility, fastening and release adjustment. Practise releasing each foot while safely supported before riding technical ground.
Knowing how to remove and fit MTB pedals makes routine swaps straightforward. Correct side identification, clean threads and the specified tightening procedure matter more than brute force.